Over the past few years, Western Europeans have woken up to the idea that Croatia is not a country of civil strife and only packaged holiday-makers. So, here is our first guide to show the independent visitor to Croatia some truly special places to stay. We look for owners, homes and hotels that we like – and we are fiercely subjective in our choices. ‘Special’ for us is not about the number of creature comforts, but relates to many elements that make a place ‘work’. Certainly, the way guests are treated comes as high on our list as the setting, the architecture and the food.